Broken Frontier

In this volume, Yamoako tests not only the limits of the culinary delights of fish, but his relationship with Kurito and his dedication to the project of the Ultimate Menu.

Oishinbo is an infinitely interesting comic. It is wildly popular in Japan where it is over 120 volumes long and has seen over 100 million copies sold. Its focus on food is something that would probably be laughed at here in the west. It is not what we would see as an entertaining topic, although that appears to be changing as we copy shows like Iron Chef or merge the utility of a cooking instructional program with reality in a show like Gordon Ramsay’s The F Word.

Still, there must be some resistance to the concept of food as entertainment or Oishinbo would be released in all of its glory as opposed to these A La Carte volumes. The volumes are organized by subject matter and as a result the stories in each edition can range from early on to late in the series. This hurts what appears to be a very detailed and methodical narrative.

However, they are fun, informative and compelling to read. The book works along the lines of your basic level up manga. Yamoako and his father, Kaibara, work for competing newspapers on cuisine as culture projects. Throughout the series they have competitions to prove whose menu is better. Along the way Yamoako and his partner on the Ultimate Menu, Kurito, fall in love and eventually are married.

In this volume, we see the beginnings of that romance blossom and then in the very next story, the couple is planning their wedding banquet. We also see Yamoako struggle with the concept of the project and its worth. This is something that seems to have been explored early on in the series, even though it has not made its way into the four volumes available stateside. It is a little nervewracking to those who aren’t familiar with the story (or those who don’t check out the footnotes in the back of each volume).

In this book, the focus is on how Japanese prepare and eat fish. It is not all raw and the dangers of eating uncooked seafood are explored in a fairly graphic manner which may turn the weak stomached away from an invitation to the local Sushi bar. However, for those of strong digestional fortitude, the worries are alleviated by the end of the story.

On its surface, Oishinbo is a fairly standard manga. It is about competition and features often awkward humor. It is barely distinguishable from Naruto or One Piece in its narrative style and artwork. However, below the surface, it is a very telling look at Japanese culture.

The obvious seed for this feeling is the height of Japanese Cuisine studied in the book. From the educational stance on the different techniques to the selection of quality ingredients, there is much that can be learned in each book. But the cultural study is much more profound than that.

At its heart, Oishinbo is a struggle between the son and the father. At odds is a stalwart traditional view of the country through its food that is being challenged by a young brash man with an open mind. Yamoako is not afraid to try the new to create his menu. As a result, we are seeing the history of Japan since the war unfold. It is a nation that has been on the verge of cultural revolution. It embraces the west and its entertainment while still holding on to a hard work ethic and conservative social value system. The book displays this aptly by sometimes having the younger man win the challenge while occasionally the wise sage comes out on top. It is a beautiful illustration of the sense of balance that is important to the nation’s sense of identity.

Hanasaki uses the art to balance the story as well. The dishes spotlighted in the book are shown with their beautiful detail, while the characters retain that cartoon look of popular manga. The food is often the visual star while the actors become caricatures of emotion and comedy. Working together with Kariya, the artist and writer create an entertaining and important look into Japan.

Oishinbo is a great work deserving of its popularity and long life span. Here is hoping it sees 120 more volumes and that we in the west can eventually read the entire saga.